Different fabrics have different needs. Silk and cashmere demand cool water and gentle handling. Wool felts irreversibly under heat. Leather and suede must never be wet cleaned at home. This library covers ten fabrics — what each one needs, the most common mistakes, and when the safest thing to do is send it to us.
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Silk
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Silk is protein-based, lightweight, and extremely sensitive to heat, chemicals, and friction. It is one of the most rewarding fabrics to wear — and one of the least forgiving to care for incorrectly.
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Some silk labelled hand wash only can be washed at home in cool water (below 30°C) with a silk-specific detergent. Turn inside out. Never soak. Rinse thoroughly in cool water.
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Never tumble dry. Roll in a clean towel to remove excess water — do not wring. Hang or lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
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Iron on the lowest setting (110°C maximum) on the reverse side while slightly damp. A pressing cloth is essential. Never iron printed or embroidered silk directly.
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Store folded in breathable cotton or silk pouches — never plastic. Keep away from direct light. Silk yellows and weakens with prolonged UV exposure.
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Printed, embroidered, heavy or structured silk — and anything labelled Dry Clean Only — should not be washed at home under any circumstances. The risk of colour bleeding, shrinkage or surface damage is high.
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Perspiration and body acids damage silk over time. Do not leave worn silk unwashed for extended periods.
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Common mistakes with silk
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Washing in warm or hot water — silk protein contracts and the fabric shrinks permanently
Using standard detergent — the alkaline pH strips the sericin coating that gives silk its lustre
Wringing or twisting — silk fibres tear under torsion when wet
Ironing dry silk on high heat — causes permanent glazing and fibre damage
Hanging to dry in direct sunlight — UV degrades silk protein and yellows the fabric
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Not sure if your silk can be washed at home? Don't experiment with it. Send it to us — we handle all silk types including printed, embroidered, and heavily structured pieces.
Wool is a natural protein fibre with remarkable properties — it regulates temperature, resists odour, and lasts decades when cared for correctly. It is also uniquely vulnerable to heat, agitation, and alkaline detergents.
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Machine wash on a dedicated wool cycle at 30°C maximum with a wool-specific detergent, or hand wash in cool water. Minimal agitation. Never use standard detergent — it breaks down the wool fibre.
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Never tumble dry. Press water out gently — never wring. Reshape the garment while damp and dry flat on a clean towel away from heat. Hanging causes stretching.
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Iron on medium heat (150°C maximum) on the reverse side with a pressing cloth and light steam. Never press wool flat — it loses its texture. Lift and lower the iron rather than dragging.
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Store folded — never on a hanger, which distorts the shape over time. Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets to deter moths. Ensure garments are completely clean before storage — moths target food and body oils on fibres.
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Heat and agitation cause felting — and it cannot be reversed
Wool fibres have microscopic scales that lock together under heat and agitation, causing the fabric to felt and shrink. Once felted, wool cannot be restored. A wool jumper washed at 40°C and tumble dried can emerge the size of a child's garment.
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Wool often needs washing less than you think. Air it out between wears. Spot treat marks. Wool's natural antibacterial properties mean it resists odour far better than synthetic fabrics.
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Common mistakes with wool
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Washing in warm or hot water — causes felting and irreversible shrinkage
Using a standard wash cycle — the agitation felts the fibres
Tumble drying — heat and tumbling cause immediate felting
Wringing or twisting when wet — wet wool tears under torsion
Hanging to dry — wool stretches significantly when damp under its own weight
Storing without cleaning — attracts moth larvae which eat the protein fibre
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Fine wool, merino, structured wool suits and coats — send them to us. Not sure how to care for a specific wool piece? We will tell you honestly.
Cotton is the most forgiving fabric to care for — but even cotton can be damaged by the wrong temperature, bleach, or tumble drying. Getting it right means your cotton garments last significantly longer.
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Machine wash at the temperature stated on the care label — up to 40°C for most coloured cotton, up to 60°C for whites, up to 95°C for white household cotton. Wash darks and coloureds inside out to reduce fading.
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Cotton can usually be tumble dried on medium heat. However, tumble drying causes gradual shrinkage over time. Line drying extends the life of cotton garments significantly.
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Iron on high heat (200°C) while slightly damp — cotton releases creases most effectively this way. A steam iron works well. Iron dark cotton on the reverse side to prevent sheen.
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Store clean and fully dry. Cotton stored damp develops mildew quickly. Fold or hang — both work. White cotton yellows over time if stored in plastic or near light.
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First wash shrinkage is normal. Most cotton shrinks 3–5% in the first wash. Buy slightly larger than needed if fit is critical, or wash before wearing to account for it.
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Never use chlorine bleach on coloured cotton. It strips dye permanently. Use oxygen-based brighteners for coloured garments.
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Common mistakes with cotton
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Washing whites with darks — even a small amount of dye transfer ruins whites
Using too high a temperature on dark or printed cotton — causes fading and cracking prints
Leaving cotton damp — mildew sets in within 24 hours in Kolkata's humidity
Using chlorine bleach on coloured cotton — permanently removes colour
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Formal cotton shirts, white kurtas, embroidered cotton and cotton furnishings — we handle all of these. Not sure? Send it to us.
Linen is one of the strongest natural fibres. It softens and improves with each wash. It wrinkles easily — but with the right technique, those creases come out beautifully.
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Machine wash at 30°C–40°C for coloured linen, 60°C for white. Use a gentle cycle. Linen can be hand washed. Wash separately until you know whether the dye bleeds — many linens do in the first few washes.
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Line dry or lay flat. Linen can be tumble dried on low heat but tends to shrink slightly with heat drying. Remove promptly to reduce creasing. Drying slightly damp makes ironing easier.
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Iron on high heat (200°C) while still slightly damp — this is when linen releases creases most effectively. A steam iron is ideal. Iron on the reverse side for dark linen to prevent sheen marks.
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Store clean and fully dry. Linen breathes well — fold or hang in a breathable environment. Avoid plastic storage. White linen will yellow if stored in direct light for extended periods.
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Linen creases are part of the character
Casual linen is meant to crease. It is a sign of the natural fibre. If you prefer a crisp look, iron while damp and hang immediately after wearing.
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Common mistakes with linen
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Ironing dry linen on high heat — can scorch the fibre, especially linen blends
Tumble drying on high heat — causes shrinkage and stiffening
Leaving linen in a damp pile — mildew develops quickly
Storing in plastic — traps moisture, causes yellowing
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Linen suits, linen sarees and structured linen garments need careful treatment. Not sure how to care for yours? Send it to us.
Denim is designed to be durable — but most people wash it far too often and at the wrong temperature, causing unnecessary fading, shrinkage and fibre wear.
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Wash inside out in cold water on a short gentle cycle with a small amount of detergent. Wash less often than you think necessary — denim does not need washing after every wear. Spot treat instead.
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Never tumble dry denim — it causes significant shrinkage and hardening. Line dry inside out in shade to preserve the colour.
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Denim rarely needs ironing. If needed, iron inside out on medium heat. Steam helps release deep creases.
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Hang or fold. Denim holds its shape well. Ensure completely dry before storing — denim that smells of mildew is very difficult to remedy.
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The less you wash denim, the better it looks. Regular washing fades colour, breaks down fibres and causes shrinkage. Turn inside out, spot clean marks, and air between wears. Many denim enthusiasts wash their jeans only a few times a year.
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Cold water only for coloured or dark denim. Warm water opens the fibres and releases dye rapidly — causing irreversible fading after just a few washes.
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Common mistakes with denim
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Washing too often — breaks down the indigo dye and cotton fibre faster than necessary
Washing right-side out — the dye surface is abraded against other fabrics
Tumble drying — causes significant shrinkage and hardens the fabric
Washing in warm or hot water — causes fading and shrinkage
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Denim jackets, structured denim, or denim with embroidery or repairs — we clean these professionally. Send it to us.
Leather is a natural hide that requires conditioning as much as cleaning. It dries out, cracks, and loses suppleness over time without proper care — particularly in dry air conditioning and Kolkata's monsoon humidity.
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Do not wash leather at home. Surface marks can be wiped with a damp cloth and dried immediately. Never soak. Never use household detergent — it strips the natural oils from the hide.
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Keep leather away from direct heat sources — radiators, direct sunlight, and hair dryers all crack the surface. Dry naturally at room temperature if leather gets wet.
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Do not iron leather. If creases appear, stuff the garment with tissue paper and leave to relax at room temperature. A leather conditioner applied with a soft cloth can help.
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Store in breathable cotton garment bags — never plastic. Stuff sleeves and body with tissue to maintain shape. Apply leather conditioner before seasonal storage. Keep in a cool, dry, dark environment.
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Leather requires specialist cleaning — not dry cleaning
Standard dry cleaning solvents strip the natural oils from leather, causing permanent drying and cracking. Leather must be cleaned using specialist leather-specific methods. The Swiss Laundry handles leather garments professionally — bring or send any leather piece to us for assessment.
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Condition leather twice a year — once before the dry winter months and once before the monsoon. A good leather conditioner prevents cracking and extends the life of the garment by years.
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Common mistakes with leather
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Machine or hand washing — destroys the natural oils and surface treatment of the hide
Using household detergent or soap — alkaline pH damages leather permanently
Drying with heat — causes immediate cracking and hardening
Storing in plastic — traps moisture, causes mildew and cracking
Ignoring conditioning — leather without oil becomes stiff and cracks from the inside
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Not sure how to care for a leather jacket, bag or shoes? Send it to us — we assess every leather piece individually before treating it.
Suede is the napped underside of leather — softer and more textured than smooth leather, but considerably more vulnerable to water, staining, and abrasion.
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Never wet clean suede at home. Water causes permanent tide marks and flattens the nap. Dry brush surface dirt with a suede brush only. Use a suede eraser for dry marks.
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Keep suede away from all moisture. If suede gets wet, blot immediately with a clean cloth — do not rub. Allow to dry naturally at room temperature, then re-brush the nap gently when fully dry.
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Never iron suede. A specialist suede brush and a small amount of steam held at a distance can help lift flattened areas. Do not apply the iron directly under any circumstances.
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Store in breathable cotton bags away from moisture and direct light. Stuff the garment to maintain shape. Apply a suede protector spray before the monsoon season. Never store suede in plastic.
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Water is suede's biggest enemy
Even a few drops of water on unprotected suede can leave permanent tide marks that are extremely difficult to remove. Apply a suede protector spray to any suede garment before first wearing and reapply seasonally.
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Common mistakes with suede
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Applying water or wet treatments — causes permanent tide marks and nap damage
Rubbing stains — pushes them deeper into the nap and spreads them
Using standard leather products on suede — different surface, different treatment
Storing without a protector spray — suede without protection stains instantly on contact with moisture
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Suede stains, water marks or flattened nap — send it to us. Suede requires specialist treatment. We assess before we begin.
Cashmere is one of the finest natural fibres available — lightweight, incredibly soft, and thermally efficient. It is also expensive and easily damaged. Caring for it correctly means it lasts a lifetime.
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Hand wash only in cool water (below 30°C) using cashmere-specific or pure baby shampoo. Never use a washing machine — even on the wool cycle. Gently squeeze suds through, do not rub or agitate.
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Never tumble dry or hang to dry — both cause irreversible distortion. Press water out gently by rolling in a clean towel. Reshape the garment while still damp and dry flat on a clean surface away from heat.
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Iron on the lowest setting with a pressing cloth and minimal steam, on the reverse side only. Cashmere is heat-sensitive. In most cases, reshaping while damp and drying flat eliminates the need to iron.
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Fold — never hang. A hanger stretches cashmere over time. Store in breathable cotton or muslin bags. Use cedar blocks to deter moths. Ensure the garment is clean before storage — moths target the protein fibre.
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Cashmere pills because of friction. Short, gentle washes and turning the garment inside out reduces pilling. A cashmere comb or de-pilling stone removes pills without damaging the fibre.
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Never machine wash cashmere
Even a wool machine cycle is too aggressive for cashmere. The fine fibres felt and mat under any mechanical agitation. Once felted, cashmere cannot be restored.
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Common mistakes with cashmere
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Machine washing on any cycle — causes felting even on delicate settings
Using standard detergent — damages the fine protein fibre
Hanging to dry — cashmere stretches significantly under its own damp weight
Ironing on medium or high heat — scorches and glazes the surface
Storing without cleaning — attracts moth larvae which eat cashmere as a protein source
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Cashmere stoles, shawls, jumpers and coats — not sure how to care for yours? Send it to us. We handle cashmere professionally.
Velvet has a distinctive cut pile that gives it its characteristic lustre and softness. That pile is also extremely fragile — it crushes permanently under pressure, heat, and improper washing.
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Most velvet is dry clean only. If the care label permits hand washing, use very cool water and a gentle detergent — no rubbing or agitation. Never machine wash velvet.
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Never tumble dry. If hand washed, allow to dry naturally hanging in the correct position — do not lay flat as the pile can become permanently indented. Keep away from all heat sources.
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Never iron velvet directly. If pressing is required, hold the iron above the surface and apply steam only — or place face-down on a velvet board or thick towel and press on the reverse side with very gentle steam.
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Hang velvet garments in a breathable bag — do not fold as fold lines can become permanent. Ensure no pressure is applied to the pile during storage. Keep away from direct sunlight.
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Pressure permanently crushes velvet pile
Folding, pressing, sitting on, or stacking velvet under other garments can create permanent crush marks in the pile. These are very difficult to reverse even professionally. Hang velvet garments and ensure they are not compressed during storage.
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Common mistakes with velvet
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Machine washing or hand washing vigorously — destroys the pile structure
Ironing directly on the pile — permanently flattens and glazes the surface
Folding or storing under pressure — creates permanent crush marks
Tumble drying — heat and tumbling matt the pile irreversibly
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Velvet sherwani, blouse, or evening wear? Send it to us. Velvet requires specialist care. We assess every piece individually before proceeding.
Chiffon is a lightweight, sheer fabric — typically silk, polyester or nylon — with a slightly rough texture from its tight crepe twist. It is delicate, prone to snagging, and easily distorted by heat.
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Hand wash gently in cool water with a mild detergent. Chiffon is fragile when wet — handle with extreme care, minimal agitation, and no rubbing. If machine washing is permitted by the label, use the most delicate cycle in a mesh laundry bag.
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Never tumble dry. Roll gently in a towel to remove excess water — do not wring. Hang carefully to dry in shade. Silk chiffon should be dried flat to prevent distortion.
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Iron on the lowest setting (110°C) using a pressing cloth, on the reverse side, with no steam for silk chiffon. The fabric can melt or distort at higher temperatures.
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Hang in a breathable garment bag. Chiffon snags easily — keep away from jewellery, rough surfaces, and items that could catch the fabric. Store in a cool, dry environment away from light.
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Silk chiffon and polyester chiffon behave differently. Silk chiffon is far more delicate — it requires more careful handling, lower temperatures, and ideally professional cleaning. Check the care label to identify the fibre before treating.
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Common mistakes with chiffon
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Machine washing on anything other than the most delicate cycle — the fabric snags and tears
Wringing or twisting when wet — breaks the delicate woven structure
Ironing on medium or high heat — melts synthetic chiffon, scorches silk chiffon
Using steam on silk chiffon — causes water spotting on the surface
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Chiffon sarees, dupattas, and evening wear — not sure how to care for yours? Send it to us and we will handle it correctly.
Some silk labelled hand wash only can be carefully washed in cool water with a silk-specific detergent. Printed silk, embroidered silk, structured silk, and anything labelled dry clean only should not be washed at home. When in doubt, send it to The Swiss Laundry.
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Use cool water — never warm or hot. A wool-specific detergent. Minimal agitation — wool cycle or hand wash. Never wring. Reshape while wet and dry flat away from heat. Heat and agitation cause felting and shrinkage — and this cannot be reversed.
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Standard dry cleaning solvents strip the natural oils from leather, causing cracking and permanent damage. Leather requires specialist cleaning. The Swiss Laundry handles leather professionally — bring or send any leather garment to us for assessment.
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Hand wash only in cool water with cashmere-specific or baby shampoo. Never machine wash. Press water out gently — do not wring. Reshape and dry flat. Store folded, never on a hanger.
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Iron while slightly damp on high heat. Steam iron works well. Iron on the reverse side. Hanging linen immediately after washing and allowing to air dry naturally also releases many creases.
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Most velvet is dry clean only. The pile crushes permanently under washing, heat, and pressure. Never iron velvet directly. Send velvet garments to The Swiss Laundry — we handle them professionally.
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