Care Labels · Explained · The Swiss Laundry
\nWhat does “dry clean only” mean?
\nIt means the garment must be cleaned with chemical solvents — not water. Here is what the label tells you, which fabrics require it, and exactly what happens if you ignore it.
\n \n“Dry clean only” means: clean this garment with chemical solvents, not water. The circle symbol on the care label is the instruction. Water — including cold water, gentle cycles and hand-washing — can permanently damage the fabric.
\n The Swiss Laundry · Kasba, Kolkata · Est. 2013\nWhy solvents instead of water? Certain fabrics — silk, wool, velvet, structured tailoring, embroidered occasion wear — are physically or chemically damaged by water contact. The fibres swell, distort or felt. The structure collapses. The embellishments tarnish or detach. Chemical solvents dissolve oils and residue without wetting the fabric at all.
\nThe care label symbols — what each means
\nIf the care label has been removed or is unreadable, assess by fabric: silk, wool, velvet, pashmina, structured tailoring and heavily embroidered garments — dry clean. Plain cotton and synthetic everyday garments — laundry. When uncertain, dry cleaning is always the safer choice.
\nWhich fabrics are dry clean only — and why
\n| Fabric / garment type | Dry clean only? | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Silk saree, blouse | Yes — always | Water dulls the sheen permanently. Watermarks on silk are often irreversible. |
| Wool suit, blazer | Yes — always | Water causes felting — irreversible shrinkage and thickening of the fabric. |
| Velvet (silk or rayon) | Yes — always | Water collapses the pile permanently. The texture cannot be restored. |
| Embroidered / zardozi garments | Yes — always | Metallic thread tarnishes in water. Sequins warp. Mirrors rust. Irreversible. |
| Structured suit (canvas) | Yes — always | Canvas and interlining delaminate in water, destroying the shape permanently. |
| Pashmina / cashmere | Yes — pure pashmina | Ultra-fine fibres felt with even gentle agitation in water. |
| Cotton shirt / kurta | No — machine wash | Cotton is stable in water at the correct temperature. |
| Synthetic (polyester, nylon) | No — machine wash | Synthetic fibres tolerate water well at the correct temperature. |
| Linen (plain) | No — machine wash | Linen is washable. Structured linen garments (suits) — dry clean. |
What happens if you wash dry clean only
\nThe consequences depend on the fabric — but in most cases, the damage is permanent.
\nSilk: The protein fibres absorb water unevenly, dulling the natural lustre permanently. Watermarks form as the fabric dries. Zari and metallic thread tarnish on contact with water.
\nWool: The microscopic scales on wool fibres open in water and interlock with neighbouring fibres — this is felting. The garment shrinks, thickens, and loses its drape irreversibly. A wool suit washed at home may emerge two sizes smaller.
\nStructured tailoring: The canvas and interlining inside a suit jacket or blazer are separate layers from the outer fabric. Water causes them to shrink at different rates, causing bubbling and delamination that cannot be corrected without full remaking.
\nEmbroidered and embellished garments: Sequins warp in hot water. Zardozi tarnishes. Mirrors rust. Beads and stones are held by threads that loosen in agitation, causing embellishments to fall off.
\nRelated guides
\n \nCommon questions
\nQuestions.
Answered.
\n It means clean the garment with chemical solvents — not water. The circle symbol on the care label indicates this. Water, including cold water and gentle hand-washing, can permanently damage the fabric.
A plain circle on the care label means dry clean with any solvent. A circle with P means perc or hydrocarbon solvent. A circle with an X means do not dry clean. A tub symbol means the garment can be washed in water.
The damage depends on the fabric. Silk loses its sheen permanently. Wool felts and shrinks irreversibly. Structured garments lose shape as canvas delaminates. Embroidered garments lose thread and embellishments. In most cases the damage cannot be undone.
For silk, wool, velvet, structured suits and embroidered occasion wear — no. Some cotton or linen garments labelled dry clean only as a precaution can sometimes survive careful cold hand-washing, but the risk is real. When the label says dry clean only, follow it.
It is a care requirement, not a suggestion. The label is placed by the manufacturer based on the fabric and construction. Ignoring it puts the garment at risk of permanent damage. The garment manufacturer is liable for care label accuracy in India under the Bureau of Indian Standards.
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